A Weekend in Kastellorizo

A WEEKEND IN | CABANA TRAVEL | WORLD OF CABANA

Across a narrow stretch of water from Turkey in the Dodecanese, the cosmopolitan Greek island of Kastellorizo has a rich history and colorful architectural tradition. From the loveliest fish tavernas and serene swimming spots to boutique hotels and charming homes, Kate Lough shares what and where to bookmark for an enriching weekend.

BY KATE LOUGH | CABANA TRAVEL | 30 MAY 2025

Where to Stay

Casa Mediterraneo: A joint project between French architect Marie Rivalant and designer Luc LeJeune, Casa Mediterraneo is set above the main harbour within three thoughtfully restored mansions, painted in a deep burnt orange inspired by the island’s light at sunset. Each of the six suites is more than generous, my favourite being the Mare with its view-maximising windows and colorful shadows thrown by its stained glass detail. In high summer, its bar’s terrace is the place for cocktails.

Hotel Mediterraneo: The first hotel project by Marie Rivalant on the island, Hotel Mediterraneo opened in 2000 on the opposite side of the harbour from the Casa. Transformed from an old pension right on the seafront, the colorful hotel is designed around relaxed, communal living with shared breakfasts on the terrace and sociable sunbathing spots.

The Scarlet House: A couple of doors down from Hotel Mediterraneo, and also right on the water, is The Scarlet House. One of the last intact, family-owned traditional houses on Kastellorizo, it's like staying in a time capsule. Its master bedroom has magnificent views over the harbour, while its pretty courtyard – a rarity on the island — is a wonderful place to sit or eat or read at any time of day.

Where to Eat & Drink

Alexandra’s: It is customary for Kastellorizans to spread their patronage fairly among the island’s restaurants, but Alexandra’s will tempt you to ignore this guideline. Known for its brilliant fish dishes, I recommend settling in by the water with tsipouro and mezze-style small dishes, such as octopus balls and grilled sardines. Make sure to ask the owner, Michaelis, for the daily specials — you might get lucky with excellent ceviche salads.

Ta Platania: Set under the shade of trees in Agios Giorgos Square in Horafia, Ta Platania is known for its cameo in Mediterraneo, which was filmed on Kastellorizo in 1992. Run by an all-female team, it is a particularly idyllic spot with red gingham table-cloths and stings of festoon lights providing the backdrop to home-cooked traditional recipes, such as skordalia, roast lamb and octopus stifado.

Lazarakis: A legendary fish taverna popular with the smart set, the family-run Lazarakis is now under the helm of Giorgos Lazarakis, who is — incidentally — also the husband of Marie Rivalant. Couples like to snag one of its jetty tables, before sharing whatever fish has been caught and grilled that day. Cross your fingers for amberjack.

Pergola Bar at Casa Mediterraneo: In the high summer months, bright young things holidaying on the island make their way to Casa Mediterraneo’s Pergola Bar for spritzes at sunset. The views are beautiful and the crowd even more so.

What to See & Do

Hiking: Hike up the 401 stone steps behind the harbour to the Monastery of Agios, Giorgios of the Mountain. Featuring a church and catacomb, you are rewarded with spectacular views of the harbour on the way up. If you want to see inside the chapel of Agios Charalambos, ask a local for the keys as it's often locked.

You can also walk up an old shepherd’s path to Paleokastro, an ancient citadel located on the site of an acropolis from the 4th Century BC. Set on the island’s second highest peak and facing the sunset, there are cisterns, churches and the ruins of houses to explore, as well as marvellous views over the nearby islet of Ro.

Swimming: Kastellorizo is not the island for beach enthusiasts, but there are many beautiful spots to enjoy its dazzling aquamarine waters. Join local kids at Faros Bar and jump into the deep harbour, or take a €7 sunlounger for the day at the Megisti Hotel, which is right next to Hotel Mediterraneo. Swim off its neoclassical balcony towards the waterside studio of Alekos Zigouris, the barefoot marble sculptor who has been coming to the island to work since the 1970s.

Further afield, take one of the local boats from the harbour, either: across the water to Agios Georgios Island, where you can rent a shady cabana for two and eat at its Turkish-owned taverna; or stock up on supplies and ask to be dropped for the afternoon at beautiful Plakes, a ‘beach’ shaped from limestone.

Museums & Sites: Housed in an Ottoman Mosque, the Archeological & Folklore Museum showcases photography archives, costumes and objects that give you a glimpse into life on the island from the 19th-century, during Ottoman rule, until 1943. Try to time your visit with the daily screening of its docu-film.

A short walk from Casa Mediterraneo is the Castle of the Knights of St John, built around 1380 upon the red rock that gives Kastellorizo its name — and where the ruins of its tower can still be seen. Below the castle, take the road to Mandraki from Faros and you will see signs for the Lycian Tomb. Carved onto the rock, it dates back to the 4th century BC and has an Ionic facade.

In general, Kastellorizo’s architecture and diminutive size make it perfect for a wander, with its neoclassical mansions dotted around the island. The Santrepeia Urban School near Horafia is notable for being inspired by the University of Athens.

Where to Shop

Marie’s Shop: Nested within Hotel Mediterraneo on the harbourfront, Marie Rivalant’s store is a treasure box of clothing, homewares, objects and jewellery sourced from, or inspired by, her travels across Turkey, Morocco and Greece.

Boukla: Hidden on a secretive street behind the Agora, Boukla sits in a pink-painted Kastellorizan home. Owner Dina sources holiday-ready hats, bags, shoes and clothing from Greek designers for each season — and befriends many of her clients.

Deli Mediterraneo: A cafe-come-delicatessen, you can stock up on wines from small Greek producers, and delicious snacks — meats, cheeses, olives etc — for your evening aperitivo.